The Mini-U is basically a stripped-down version of the U-Frame. Some people like a heavy machine, and some like a lighter one. I loved the look of the U-Frame so much, I didn't want the folks who hate heavier machines to dismiss the machine "out of hand". I took the original U-Frame, and went to work on the wax, stripping out every last bit of weight I could, without compromising the structure of the machine. I had to redesign the tube vise, the coil bed, and the spring shelf cap.

After all the carving, The Mini-U weighs in at a featherweight 7 ounces! (This is not the weight of the frame, this is the fully assembled machine, with two full-size 1.25" 8-wrap coils.)

The Mini-U frames can be stretched to run as quick shaders, but they really are happiest as fast little liners. The frame has been carved out, and compressed just right, and with a short spring gap, and a short armature bar, they run a smooth but vicious little stroke, with enough punch to run any group you would want at zippy liner speeds.

Sometimes I like to Use Crowknows' shorty T-Top coils, with a big fat 1/4" yoke under them. It turns the coils into a big ol' acme horseshoe magnet, with a ton of punch at low voltage. I love the way these guys sound at 140 cps. the Mini-U's typically run lower voltage than my other machines, and have a shorter stroke. (Usually somewhere around 5.5 volts, with plenty of power on the downstroke...)

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All my springs are CNC water-jet cut in the USA, from sheets of blue-tempered spring steel (not stamped from strips). This allows the springs to avoid all the edge-stress that can develop from worn out dies, and also avoids the twisting that I've seen in some of the bigger name-brand punched springs. I use a range of different spring types, in different shapes and thicknesses, to get the machines tuned the way they should be. (Each machine is different, and they are all hand tuned to the buyers specifications, before shipment.)

My coil cores and armature bars are made by Crowknows in the USA. He's a genius when it comes to all things magnetic, and he has a steel mill produce an ungodly alloy that makes his T-top coils pound for pound stronger than anything else I've seen out there. I've never had to use more than 8-wraps on any machine, and if the voltage requirements at the sweet spot go over seven volts, I know something has gone wrong, and I re-wind the coils.

My brass hardware comes from a few different sources, all of them in the US.

All the parts I use on my machines are Made in the USA. anything not done with my own two hands, gets outsourced to a local craftsman, a fellow passenger on the USS Failboat we're all riding on.


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